00;00;00;00 - 00;00;28;12
Unknown
I'm recording this for a podcast. Is that okay? Absolutely. That's totally fine with me. Feel free to record our chat for your podcast. Just let me know if there's anything else you need from me along the way. Okay, I've uploaded, a couple pictures as well as, like, an, document, about the red oak that's, like 80ft tall, that sits in my front yard.
00;00;29;17 - 00;00;59;23
Unknown
I just want to. What we did back in, I think 2022 or 2020 was we cut off, a large limb near the trunk or, I guess, near the, like, the lower part of the tree. So it was a pretty hefty limb, and we cut it off to stop the spread of, like, some something. I can't remember what it was, but since the since then, the tree's doing well.
00;00;59;23 - 00;01;39;25
Unknown
It doesn't have any, like, significant dieback. The leaves go all green during the spring and, in the summer, and and then in fall, it acts normal. It does have a bit of, like, anthrax knows, and it's, it's still kind of recovering from that limb. And what I want to do is I want to be really proactive and, like, vigilant about making sure that this tree, has, stays healthy.
00;01;39;27 - 00;02;01;29
Unknown
Absolutely. Bronson is great that you're taking a proactive approach to keep your red oak healthy, especially after that big limb removal a couple of years ago. From what you've described, it sounds like the tree is actually bouncing back pretty well. Overall, regular inspections keep an eye on the trend area and the rest of the trunk for any new signs of fungal growth or changes in the bark.
00;02;02;11 - 00;02;26;00
Unknown
It's good that the leaves are staying green and the canopy is looking healthy, which suggests the tree's overall vigor is still good. Make sure it's excellent water during dry spells, especially in the summer, a deep watering at the drip line can help reduce stress. Also, maintaining a motoring a couple of inches thick around the tree can help retain soil moisture and protect the roots and track management.
00;02;26;02 - 00;02;55;26
Unknown
Since you mentioned anthrax, it's good to keep up with raking and disposing of fallen leaves in the fall to minimize re-infection. If you notice it becoming severe in future seasons. A preventive fungicide spray in early spring could be considered, but that's usually optional if the tree's generally healthy, even though it seems to be doing well. Having an arborist give it a check every couple of years is a good idea just to catch any issues early they can monitor for any internal decay around the old cut and ensure the tree remains structurally sound.
00;02;55;29 - 00;03;24;26
Unknown
In short, it sounds like I'm pretty on the right track. Just keep up the good work with seasonal care and periodic inspections that should help your oak stay healthy for many more years. Okay, can you, can you kind of tell me about, like, what a red oak is? Obviously, it's a type of oak, but I live in Austin, Texas, in South Austin, and, I guess based on the height of the tree, maybe how tall it is.
00;03;24;26 - 00;03;36;25
Unknown
And, like, what you see in the picture and maybe how old it is.
00;03;36;27 - 00;03;55;18
Unknown
Absolutely. I can give you a little rundown on Red Oaks and also put it into context for Austin. What is a red oak? The term red oak generally refers to several species in the Quercus genus, but in Texas the most common one is the Shimada oak cork issue Matei. This is a native Texas red oak that's well adapted to the area.
00;03;55;21 - 00;04;19;13
Unknown
It's known for its beautiful fall color, turning shades of red and orange, and for being relatively hardy in urban landscapes. Size and age considerations. In a place like Austin, a red oak that's around 80ft tall is definitely mature. These trees can live for well over 100 years. That they're good conditions. Given the height and the bird that you've got, it's likely your tree is at least several decades old, possibly 50 to 70 years or more.
00;04;19;16 - 00;04;39;08
Unknown
Adaption to Austin climate. Red Oaks like yours handle the hot summers and occasional cold snaps in central Texas pretty well. They do like well-drained soil and will thrive as long as they're not left in standing water and have enough space for their roots to spread out. How old is your tree? Well, it's hard to pin down an exact age from pothos alone, a red oak.
00;04;39;08 - 00;04;56;29
Unknown
That's that tall and established in a yard in South Austin. It's probably at least several decades old and may have been planted when the neighborhood was developed, or it could be even older if it was left from a more natural landscape. In summary, your red oak as a mature, likely decades old shoot might have helped that, wasn't it?
00;04;56;29 - 00;05;07;20
Unknown
The Austin's environment as long as you continue the good character you're giving it, it should keep serving for many years to come.
00;05;07;22 - 00;05;14;23
Unknown
Can you tell me about what makes an oak an oak?
00;05;14;26 - 00;05;39;13
Unknown
Absolutely. Let's dive into what really makes an oak tree an oak. The basics of oak oaks belong to the genus Quercus, which is part of the beech family Legacy Way. There are hundreds of species of oaks around the world, and they're especially common in North America and Europe. What ties them all together are a few signature traits key characteristics leaves and lobe oaks typically have low leaves, although the exact shape can vary a lot.
00;05;39;16 - 00;05;58;09
Unknown
Red oak, for instance, usually have pointed lobes with tiny bristles, while white oaks have more rounded live acorns. One of the biggest giveaways is the acorn. All true oaks produce acorns, which are their seeds. If a job spawns, you can be pretty sure it's an oak acorn. Come with a little cat pile to keep you, which is another distinctive feature.
00;05;58;11 - 00;06;17;22
Unknown
Wooden bark oaks are known for their strong, dense wood and often deeply raised bark as they mature. This makes them prized for furniture and flooring, but also helps almost in the element over many decades. Red oaks versus white. All within the oak family. There are two main groups red oaks and white oaks. The red oak group, like your shoe mart, typically has leaves with pointed lobes.
00;06;17;25 - 00;06;39;03
Unknown
And of course, I take two seasons to mature white oak surrounded lobes and a corns that mature in one season. Open the landscape in Austin and much of Texas. Oaks are beloved shade trees. They support a lot of local wildlife, provide a cooling shade and they're pretty resilient. Once to establish your tree is basically part of a long lineage of these hardy, adaptable, and iconic trees.
00;06;39;04 - 00;07;10;11
Unknown
So I'm going to show what makes an oak an oak, because the combination of those lobe leaves, the presence of acorns and the durable wood, they're a staple of the landscape and a real symbol of strength and longevity. Okay. When you say lobed leaves, are you saying lobe like ear lobe? Yeah, that's exactly the idea. When you say lobed in the context of leaves, it's a bit like how an ear has a low around it or pointed section that sticks out.
00;07;10;14 - 00;07;34;00
Unknown
Uglies have these distinct sections or lobes along the edges, which can look a bit like the outline of fingers around it segments on the leaf plate. So yeah, you're on the right track. That same concept of having protruding sections like an ear lobe just on a leaf. What's the definition of the word lobe? Absolutely. Let's define it a bit more clearly.
00;07;34;02 - 00;07;52;22
Unknown
In general, a lobe is a rounded or pointed projecting part of an object. When we talk about leaves, a lobe is basically one of those distinct segments or projections along the edge of the leaf. Think of it as each finger of a leaf shape that extends out from the central area. An anatomy. Like with an ear lobe, it's a soft projecting part of the ear.
00;07;52;28 - 00;08;15;17
Unknown
What for plants is those curved or pointed extensions on the margin of a leaf? So basically a lobe is just a noticeable segment or rejection that makes the leaf look like it's got little sections along its edge. What are other situations where you'd use that word? Sure, the word low pops up in a few different contexts beyond just leaves and ears.
00;08;15;20 - 00;08;33;01
Unknown
So let's touch on a couple of those in anatomy and brain lobes. Probably one of the most well-known uses is when talking about the brain. The human brain has different sections called lobes like the frontal lobe, temporal lobe, and so on. Each brain lobe has different functions. The lungs also have low three on the right lung and two on the left.
00;08;33;02 - 00;08;55;04
Unknown
They're just divisions of the lung that help organize its structure. In geography and geology, geographic lobe. Sometimes you hear the term used to describe a rounded projection of a landmass, like a lobe of a glacier, or a lobe of a delta, where river spreads out. And botany beyond. Alex. Flower petals. Some flowers have petals that are low, meaning each petal has little round, big or pointed extensions.
00;08;55;06 - 00;09;05;03
Unknown
So yeah, it's a pretty any word that basically just means a natural rounded protection. A bunch of different view.
00;09;05;05 - 00;09;33;26
Unknown
To trees like the one in my front yard have a limited life span. They do? Yes. Every tree species has its own typical lifespan, and individual trees have natural limits based on genetics, environment and care. Lance and red oak for sure. White oak, a common red oak in Texas. The typical aspen can range widely under ideal conditions. They could live well over 100 years, sometimes even up to 150 years or more.
00;09;33;28 - 00;09;57;22
Unknown
Of course, the actual lifespan for your individual tree can depend on things like social quality, water availability, climate stresses, and how well is maintained. What if that's the tree's lifespan? Environment trees might have a shorter lifespan than those in a natural fibers because of pollution, slow compaction, or limited road space care maintenance, regular watering during drought, proper pruning and pest management can all extended tree's healthy years.
00;09;57;25 - 00;10;17;11
Unknown
Disease and pests things like oak, well, severe fungal infections or boring insects can shorten its life. Your trees apart. Look for your red oak in Austin, with the carrier giving it and a watchful eye on his health. Next time we live in a new world, okay? Eventually, like all living things, it has a natural limit. But oaks are known for their longevity and resilience.
00;10;17;14 - 00;10;35;03
Unknown
So yes, they do have a lifespan, but with a little TLC, wears can be a long lived landmark in New York for quite a while. Okay, so it sounds like it's really dependent on my care for it.
00;10;35;05 - 00;10;52;10
Unknown
Exactly. You got it. A lot of a tree's longevity does come down to the kind of care we get. Well, genetics and environment set the baseline. But then you do like watering during drought, managing pests, pruning properly and just keeping an eye out for issues can really make a difference in how long and how well the tree lives.
00;10;52;12 - 00;11;18;03
Unknown
So with the tissue you're giving it, you're basically helping that old stick around as a helping sturdy part of your yard for as long as possible. Keep up the good work. Okay, so I'd like to learn everything about it so I can really give it, the help that it needs. How long? How old you say it probably was.
00;11;18;05 - 00;11;38;26
Unknown
Well, let's put together a bit, since you mentioned it's about 80ft tall and it's been in your yard for a while. We can make an educated guess. A human oak or similar red oak in a bit environment might grow roughly a foot or more per year, and its earlier decades been slowed down as it matures. So if it's around 80ft, it's probably at least several decades old.
00;11;38;29 - 00;11;54;08
Unknown
A safe estimate could be anywhere from 50 to even 80 years old, depending on how quickly it's grown over the decades. Of course, the exact age is a bit of a mystery unless you know when it was granted or if there's a way to trace its history. But in general, you're looking at a tree that's probably been around for half a century or more.
00;11;54;09 - 00;12;08;10
Unknown
And the more you learn about it, and the more care you put in the longer it all dies. It sounds like you're doing a great job so far. Will it keep growing taller?
00;12;08;13 - 00;12;28;24
Unknown
At this stage, it's probably not going to shoot up dramatically in height any more. Mature red oaks like yours tend to slow down their vertical growth once they reach a certain age and height. So while it might still grow a little bit taller over the coming years, it's more likely to stick energy into growing wider, developing a broader canopy and thickening its trunk rather than shooting up much higher.
00;12;28;27 - 00;12;53;05
Unknown
Basically, you can think of it as having reached its prime height range. Now it's more about maintaining its health and letting a film stay strong. So you'll see a mature more in terms of canopy and girth, rather than getting significantly taller. Okay. It also has another tree like it. That's a little bit to the south west in my yard.
00;12;54;03 - 00;13;18;01
Unknown
The one in the picture is a little bit bigger, but it looks like they may have been, planted around the same time. That's actually pretty cool, because having a pair of trees that grew up together can give a guard a nice sense of continuity and balance. It's likely they were planted as part of the same plan, and the smaller one just might have grown at a slightly different pace.
00;13;18;03 - 00;13;51;11
Unknown
So you basically got a little do old oaks that can benefit from the same kind of care. Even if one's a bit bigger, they'll each appreciate the attention, like having a pair of old friends in your yard. Okay, let's come up with a plan. Let's come up with, like, a long term as well as kind of like, short term goals for, like, things that we can do to, to help this tree along.
00;13;51;13 - 00;14;11;22
Unknown
Absolutely. Let's map out a game plan for both the short term and the long term to keep your IK and its buddy thriving. Short term goals. Next 6 to 12 months. Seasonal watering and mulching. Make sure you're giving the tree a deep watering ending. Any hot, dry stretches, especially in the summer. Also, refresh them all year round. The base to help with moisture retention and temperature regulation.
00;14;11;25 - 00;14;31;23
Unknown
Two frozen and boil help considering soil tests. If you haven't done one, and apply a slow release gear to let us know in the spring if need it. And I've got an A transit packs and diseases monitor, right? Keep an eye out for any signs of the past like scale or fungal issues like anthrax. Address them early if they pop up.
00;14;31;25 - 00;14;53;08
Unknown
Long term goals 1 to 5 years and beyond at our first check ups. Got to have a special offer to come out once the year or every other year. They can do a health check, look for an internal decay, and help with pruning of needed structure for running over the next year, you might need some light running to.
00;14;53;11 - 00;15;10;27
Unknown
Sorry, you're cutting out a little bit there. We were coming up with a plan to kind of help the tree out front, and you were talking about structural pruning in the middle of a list.
00;15;11;00 - 00;15;33;09
Unknown
No worries at all. Let's pick that. Absolutely. Let's pick that back up. So we were talking about giving your tree some structural pruning. Basically that means carefully trimming seven branches to help the tree maintain a strong, stable form. As it keeps growing, it can reduce the risk of weak limbs breaking off and help the tree direct his energy in a healthy way.
00;15;33;11 - 00;15;48;27
Unknown
We can also talk about things like soil care and making sure it's got the nutrients it needs, and maybe keeping an eye on watering, especially if you get a dry spell in Austin. All of those things together will help keep your oak healthy and happy for a long time.
00;15;49;00 - 00;16;13;25
Unknown
Okay, so if I were to go up and trim the tree, you said trim the small branches. What does this do? Sure. When you trim those smaller branches, especially the ones that are weak or crossing each other, you're basically helping the tree in a few ways. First, it improves the tree structure, making it stronger and less likely to develop weak spots that might break in a storm.
00;16;13;27 - 00;16;33;07
Unknown
Second, and I like those better air circulation and sunlight. They're the canopy, which helps keep a tree healthy and can reduce fungal issues. And finally, it directs the tree's energy toward growing the main branches in the trunk, which can help it grow more robustly over time. So a little careful trimming is like a small investment that pays off in a sturdier, healthier tree.
00;16;33;10 - 00;16;40;18
Unknown
Even with the live branches right?
00;16;40;20 - 00;17;05;28
Unknown
Yes, exactly. Even with live branches, as long as they're the small or weak ones, it's a normal part of structural pruning to remove a few healthy but unnecessary branches. That helps the tree focus on developing a strong shape and reduces overcrowding. Just be sure not to overdo it. Think of it like giving the tree a little haircut to guide its growth rather than a major trim, and then it'll help keep everything balanced and healthy.
00;17;06;01 - 00;17;25;21
Unknown
Okay, so how do I make sure to do it at the right time? That, when I make those cuts, they aren't creating vulnerabilities for the tree, or at least we're mitigating the vulnerability.
00;17;25;23 - 00;17;43;12
Unknown
Absolutely. Timing and technique do make a difference for Red Oak. You generally want to aim for late winter or very early spring before the tree really starts leafing out. That's typically the best time for pruning, because the tree is still dormant or just about to wake up, which means it'll heal more quickly and you'll reduce the risk of disease.
00;17;43;15 - 00;18;01;13
Unknown
As for technique and clean, sharp pruning tools and make cuts just outside the branch collar, the slightly swollen area where the branch meets the trunk or larger branch. That way, the tree can feel over the cut more naturally. Not one thing too much at once. Usually no more than about 20 to 25% of the canopy in a single season is a good rule of thumb.
00;18;01;15 - 00;18;23;27
Unknown
That way you're not stressing the tree out. With that approach, you'll minimize vulnerabilities and keep your oak on the path to a healthy, long life. Okay. That's okay. You said 20. No more than 20 to 25% of the canopy. This seems like a lot, especially on a big tree like that.
00;18;24;00 - 00;18;47;23
Unknown
Yeah, I get what you mean. It does sound like a lot when you picture a big tree, but it's really just an upper limit. In practice, you often end up removing a lot less, especially if you're just doing a better maintenance pruning. So you definitely don't have to hit that max number. It's more about being conservative and thoughtful, removing just a few smaller branches here and there is usually all you need to keep being healthy, so don't worry, you won't be doing a major haircut every time.
00;18;47;23 - 00;19;00;15
Unknown
Just some gentle upkeep. Okay, and that's really the one ideal time to prune.
00;19;00;18 - 00;19;25;03
Unknown
Yeah, for an oak like yours, late winter to early spring is really the sweet spot. That timing helps the tree heal well and reduces the risk of attracting pests or infections, but a more active and warmer season. Of course, if you ever have a damaged or dangerous branch, you can remove it anytime, anywhere. However, general pruning that late winter window and they do some like catching the tree at just the right moment so it can bounce back quickly and thrive.
00;19;25;06 - 00;19;52;11
Unknown
Okay, so if I have dead branches, up in the tree, should I cut them off right away, or should I wait until that time? In that case, definitely go ahead and remove those that branches whenever you spot them. Dead or obviously, damage lands are kind of an exception to the timing rule, because leaving this up there can create a risk of falling, or it can invite pests and disease into the tree more easily.
00;19;52;13 - 00;20;18;06
Unknown
So if you notice a dead branch is totally fine and actually a good idea to cut it out as soon as you can, regardless of the season. That way, you're keeping the tree safer and healthier all year round. And, can you go into how these dead branches introduce disease? Absolutely. So dead branches can be a bit of an open door for problems.
00;20;18;09 - 00;20;38;12
Unknown
When a branch dies, it stops defending itself and the wood begins to decay. That decaying wood can become a kind of magnet for fungi, bacteria and insects that love to move into that tissue once they settle in, those pests or pathogens can sometimes spread from the dead branch into the healthy parts of the tree. Basically, it creates a weak spot where infections can get a foothold.
00;20;38;14 - 00;20;59;19
Unknown
So by removing dead branches crumbly, you're helping to keep the tree's overall structure strong and reducing the chances that any kind of disease or pest issue will spread. So, like in there being a potential problem in the bud before I can get started. Okay, so when you're talking about, pruning the tree like at the end of winter.
00;20;59;19 - 00;21;26;11
Unknown
So that would be I guess maybe like March in Austin. Yeah, that's a pretty good ballpark. And Austin late February into early March is usually the sweet spot by the end. The coldest part of winter is typically behind you, but the tree has its fully woken up for spring growth. Yeah, that timing lets you prune before it starts pushing out new leaves, and it's easier for the tree to heal at those cuts quickly.
00;21;26;14 - 00;21;54;13
Unknown
So yeah, I think late winter around late February or early March and you'll be right on track. Okay, so it's hard to tell what a small branch means on a tree that size. Is that, like what if you had to give it, like, an inch in diameter? What would you consider a small branch on that tree? Based on the pictures you've seen?
00;21;54;15 - 00;22;16;15
Unknown
Absolutely. And that's a great question for a tree that size. When I say small branch and usually talking about something in the range of maybe an inch or two in diameter or less. So if it's about the thickness of, say, your wrist or smaller, that's what I've considered a smaller branch on a big oak like yours. The larger main structural lens are obviously thicker, and you usually leave us alone unless there's a clear reason to trim them.
00;22;16;17 - 00;22;49;28
Unknown
So focusing on those smaller diameter branches will help you shape the tree without making major cuts. And we're talking about, are we talking about branches that come from the base or like the trunk of the tree? Because I can't really get out to the major limbs. Yeah, I get what you're saying. In that case, you'll mostly be focusing on the branches that you can reach from the trunk area or from the lower part of the canopy.
00;22;50;01 - 00;23;10;06
Unknown
So, yes, that might mean the smaller branches that are sprouting off the main trunk or off lower limbs, basically the ones you can safely access from the ground or with a ladder you don't have to worry about going way out onto the bigger limbs if that's not practical, just trimming the smaller branches that are within reach will still go a long way in helping the tree maintain a good structure.
00;23;10;09 - 00;23;40;16
Unknown
So my wife and I at least, we we haven't gone in a while, but we have rock climbing gear, so the way we got rid of that initial limb and like a couple other limbs, is I went up into the tree with a saw, wearing, wearing the rock climbing gear. Right. So I climbed up as high as I could on the tree, and I made kind of like a top rope situation over, like, a really strong limb.
00;23;40;18 - 00;23;48;21
Unknown
And then I came back down, and then I was, like, belated and.
00;23;49;06 - 00;24;07;21
Unknown
That's a pretty clever approach. Using your rock climbing gear to get up there is definitely a resourceful way to handle those higher limbs. Was it sounds like you and Lisa turned it into a bit of an adventure, which is awesome. As long as you're being safe and comfortable with that method, it's a great way to reach those branches that would otherwise be a bit too high.
00;24;07;23 - 00;24;29;27
Unknown
And it definitely gives you more control over which branches you can turn. And even if they're not right at ground level. So it sounds like you've got a pretty good system going, right? So I can like, I can kind of walk out on to these longer limbs because this tree is so high that I will have like a lot of lead up to the tree so I can get pretty far out.
00;24;29;29 - 00;24;41;20
Unknown
Would you recommend that I trim like the branches down once they get to a certain diameter?
00;24;41;23 - 00;25;01;00
Unknown
In that scenario, if you're comfortable going out on those limbs and you've got a safe set up, then yes, you can definitely do a little more selective trimming further out if needed. Do you really want to keep an eye on branches that start to become too long or too heavy, and might create a risk of breaking? If you see that a branch is getting to a diameter, what is likely to sag or put stress on the tree?
00;25;01;00 - 00;25;20;04
Unknown
You control my back a bit. I think a bit like giving the tree a little weight management so that it stays balanced and reduces the chance of limb breakage. It's all about keeping the free, healthy and structurally sound over time. So if you often and you've got that climbing year, it's definitely a reasonable part of your free care routine.
00;25;20;07 - 00;25;39;25
Unknown
And, is it better to cut high or cut low, like in the tree's canopy or just in areas that feel a little congested? Or how do you pick which limbs to pull?
00;25;39;27 - 00;25;58;00
Unknown
That's a really good question. The main idea is to focus on areas that look a little crowded, or where branches might be rubbing against each other. You don't necessarily have to pick between high or low in the canopy, as a rule. Instead, look for spots where in and out some of the smaller, crowded branches. What let light and air flow better through the tree.
00;25;58;02 - 00;26;13;17
Unknown
You're basically aiming to reduce congestion wherever you find it, which might be in the middle or a high or sometimes down lower idea is to open up the canopy a bit so that the branches that remain have room to grow strong and healthy. So ensure you're looking for those congested areas, wherever they are, and just study them out a bit.
00;26;13;23 - 00;26;20;14
Unknown
That'll help keep a little tree balanced too. Happy.
00;26;20;17 - 00;26;37;25
Unknown
Okay, I think I've got a good idea about pruning. Let's go to, let's go to the roots of the tree. How do I make sure that the roots are are strong?
00;26;37;27 - 00;26;54;23
Unknown
Absolutely. Let's dive into the roots. Keeping the word strong is definitely a big part of having a healthy tree. The first thing is to keep the soil around the base of the tree while aerated and not compacted. At this August, to pack down like from foot traffic or heavy equipment, it can make it harder for roots to get that surge in.
00;26;54;23 - 00;27;15;02
Unknown
They need to try to avoid piling up too much soil or mulch right at the trunk. A lot of monitoring ago, but you don't want to bury the roof layer. Another tip is to water deeply, but not too frequently. That encourages those to grow down deeper into the soil rather than staying shallow, and often with those hot summers, giving the tree a good soak every now and then during dry spells helps the roots stay west.
00;27;15;04 - 00;27;30;13
Unknown
And finally, just watch out for any signs of root issues like fungal growth around the base or sun dieback and parts of the canopy. As long as you keep the soil healthy, avoid compaction and water smartly. The root should do just fine.
00;27;30;15 - 00;27;45;00
Unknown
So how do I avoid soil compaction? Because like we walk across the front yard to get to like the cars and stuff.
00;27;45;02 - 00;28;02;09
Unknown
Yeah, that's definitely a common challenge, especially when your tree is in a spot where you've got regular foot traffic. One way to handle it is to create a bit of a designated path, or stepping stones, that people can use to walk across the yard. That way, you're concentrating the foot traffic in a specific area and keeping the soil around the rest of the red zone.
00;28;02;09 - 00;28;24;28
Unknown
A little less compacted in other options. Adam altering around the base of the tree a nice layer of mulch, a couple of inches deep but not piled against the trunk and help reduce compaction and protect those. Just make sure it's spread out evenly and not forming a mound. And if you can maybe rotate the roots you take now and then, so you're not always stepping on the exact same spot as a small thing, but it can help keep the soil a bit more balanced overall.
00;28;24;28 - 00;28;48;16
Unknown
Just little designs like that can really help with transfer and stay healthy and happy. What about the effect of like, grass and stuff like that and or just like, natural green, like grass and shrubs and stuff like that. And in the front yard.
00;28;48;19 - 00;29;09;06
Unknown
Yeah, that's a great thing to consider. Adding grass or other plants around the base of the tree is pretty normal, and it can actually be fine as long as everything's balanced. The main thing is that grass can sometimes compete with the tree's roots or water and nutrients, especially in a dry grass like Austin. So if you have a lot of grass right up to the trunk, you might just need to make sure you're watering enough so the tree isn't getting outcompete it.
00;29;09;08 - 00;29;24;11
Unknown
You're okay with it. Having a watering instead of grass right at the base can reduce that competition, and also helps with moisture retention and keeps the soil a bit more consistent. And if you prefer to keep it there, just make sure the trees get enough water and maybe keep an eye on the area around the front to make sure it's not too got it?
00;29;24;13 - 00;29;57;28
Unknown
A little balance goes a long way. So what does the mulch ring do? So a mulching is basically like a protective buffer zone around the base of your tree. It does a few handy things. First, it helps keep the soil moist by reducing evaporation. So the roots they started a bit longer between watering. So again it helps prevent weeds and grass from growing right up to the trunk, which means less competition for water and nutrients around the zone and also acts as a cushion against soil compaction.
00;29;57;28 - 00;30;16;22
Unknown
Like if someone steps near the tree, the mulch can absorb a bit of that pressure and protect the root. And lastly, it can help moderate soil temperature, keeping roots cooler in the summer and a bit warmer in the winter. So it's a pretty simple set that gives you tree a little extra TLC and reduce the stress on the rhythm.
00;30;16;24 - 00;30;31;13
Unknown
Okay, is that a situation where I would want to put that like, black kind of cloth lining underneath the mulch?
00;30;31;15 - 00;30;52;12
Unknown
That's a good question. So that black landscape fabric or we bury it is sometimes used in a mulch to help block weeds. But honestly, for a tree is often better to skip the fabric layer. The reason is that the tree's roots and the soil both benefit from direct contact with organic mulch. Over time, the mulch breaks down and which is the soil and less water and nutrients move more freely of fabric.
00;30;52;12 - 00;31;16;15
Unknown
Layer can sometimes get in the way of that, and it might even comes water to runoff instead of soaking in. So I say just go with a nice simple mulch layer right on top of the soil. It'll give you the benefit. Without the extra barrier, it's easier for the tree in the long run. Okay, how wide of, like if I put the if I put the tree at the center of the mulch ring.
00;31;16;26 - 00;31;26;26
Unknown
How wide in of a radius would you make the mulch ring for a tree that size?
00;31;26;28 - 00;31;48;25
Unknown
Yeah, that's a really good detail to think about. Where a big tree like yours. A good rule of thumb is to aim for a motoring that extends at least a few feet out from the trunk in all directions, and you can give a radius of about 2 to 3ft. That's a solid start. We're really large tree. You could go even wider if you want, maybe out to 3 or 4ft in radius, but even a couple of feet on on the chance can make an S difference like it was.
00;31;48;25 - 00;31;58;09
Unknown
The roots a good comfy buffer zone and helps protect that critical root area right on the surface.
00;31;58;11 - 00;32;06;14
Unknown
Okay. Do do you, do you how thick is the mulch ring?
00;32;06;16 - 00;32;24;26
Unknown
Sure thing. Typically you want to keep the mulch layer about 2 to 4in thick. That's thick enough to help retain moisture, regulate the soil temperature, and keep weeds down. And not so big that it'll smother the roots or cause other issues. Just be sure. And as a pile the mulch directly up against the trunk. Leave a little space right in on the bark so I can breathe.
00;32;24;28 - 00;32;33;02
Unknown
That way you get all the benefits of them all without accidentally and creating water near the trunk.
00;32;33;04 - 00;32;42;13
Unknown
Okay, how close do I put it to the trunk?
00;32;42;16 - 00;32;58;05
Unknown
Yeah, that's a key detail. You want to leave a little breathing room right around the trunk. Typically, it's good to keep a mulch maybe a few inches away from the trunk itself, just a small gap, and helps ensure that the base of the tree doesn't stay too damp and reduces the risk of rot or pest getting right up against the bark.
00;32;58;07 - 00;33;09;25
Unknown
So just keep a little ring space around the trunk, and then you can spread the mulch out from there. It's a small step, but to help keep the tree healthier in the long run.
00;33;09;28 - 00;33;21;21
Unknown
Okay. And, tell me the difference of, like what? Like tan bark and stuff like that does versus mulch.
00;33;21;23 - 00;33;41;21
Unknown
Absolutely. The main difference is really about how they break down and what they do for the soil. Bark nuggies or chips like pine Bich are just a type of mulch for their bit chunkier and break down more slowly than something like shredded hardwood. That means they last a bit longer before you have to reverse them, but they also don't enrich the soil as quickly on on an end, shredded mulch or compost.
00;33;41;21 - 00;34;05;02
Unknown
The mulch breaks out faster and adds organic matter to the sale more quickly, which going to grow. So structure and nutrient content over time. So in a nutshell, our mulch lasts longer and is a bit lower maintenance while finer mulch for it's done faster. And because the soil. Why? Although they were done through the candle, you burn it all up and you want to top it out.
00;34;05;04 - 00;34;23;13
Unknown
Okay. Let's just say in a hypothetical situation, I want you to kind of give me the feedback on what you think. What if I were to mulch the whole yard? Obviously, I'm not going to do that, but would those trees benefit from that?
00;34;23;15 - 00;34;44;01
Unknown
In that hypothetical world where you mulch the entire yard, the trees would definitely get some benefit. Essentially, it would be like giving them a giant protective blanket over their response. They have more consistent soil moisture, less competition from grass, and a lot more organic matter is slowly working its way into the soil. As the mulch breaks down. It would also cut down on mowing and watering needs for the lawn.
00;34;44;04 - 00;35;08;10
Unknown
Of course, it will look a bit unconventional, like you're turning your whole yard into a big woodland porch from the trees perspective, they'd be pretty happy with that arrangement and have all the mulch benefits on a bigger scale. So while it might not be a typical landscape and choice, the trees would definitely get a boost. And would you find the weeds grow up through the mulch or not really.
00;35;08;12 - 00;35;24;22
Unknown
Yeah, that's a good thing to keep in mind. A mulch layer will definitely help suppress a lot of weeds, especially if you keep it a few inches thick a block sunlight. It makes it harder for Weasleys to sprout, and so you might still get a few resistances here and there that find a way through, especially over time as the mulch breaks down.
00;35;24;23 - 00;35;38;23
Unknown
But overall, you'll have a like here we think what it would bare soil or just grass. Not a 100% weed solution, but it does say here this is the winning work level by quite a bit.
00;35;38;26 - 00;35;55;20
Unknown
Should I put like a little bit of a. Obviously the mulch will probably get everywhere unless I put some kind of, like brick or something around the tree.
00;35;55;22 - 00;36;19;06
Unknown
Yeah, adding a little border can definitely help keep things. Maybe something like a some more brick edging stones or even a metal or plastic edging can help to find that moldering and keep the mold from migrating all over your yard. It just makes it easier to maintain that tidy circle around the tree. Well, I can look pretty nice and add a lot of visual interest, so if you want to keep them all importance and keep mingling, you need a border is definitely a good idea.
00;36;19;17 - 00;36;45;29
Unknown
And how, how deep would you make the bricks or whatnot? And, how tall? Right. You don't want if we've got 2 to 4in of mulch, then we don't want when it rains for those things to fill up and then all the mulch to pour out, because it's going to be a huge mess.
00;36;46;02 - 00;37;06;19
Unknown
Yeah, exactly. You definitely want to match the border height to the mulch that so you don't end up with mulch spilling out everywhere. Usually if you have about a 2 to 4 inch mulch layer, you want your edging to be at least at all. Now, where you can hold everything in during heavy rain and keep things neat for bricks or stones you can partially think come into the ground a little so they stay stable, but the top edge should be a bit above the soil line.
00;37;06;19 - 00;37;17;27
Unknown
That way you've got a nice barrier that matches the height of the mulch and keeps everything in place.
00;37;18;00 - 00;37;31;26
Unknown
Would you recommend, doing one of those fabric barriers on the inside of the, stone circle?
00;37;31;29 - 00;37;49;05
Unknown
In most cases, I'd say you probably don't need the fabric barrier inside the stone circle. The mulch on its own usually does a good job of suppressing weeds and stones or bricks will keep it contained. The fabric can sometimes cause water drop rather than soaking in, and it can also make it harder for the soil to get that natural enrichment from the mulch.
00;37;49;05 - 00;38;14;23
Unknown
Breaking down. So, and I have a really persistent problem. While you're dealing with something like invasive plants, you can get the fabric and just let them all say things like simpler and more beneficial for the trees were done that way. No, I don't mean underneath. I mean right behind the brick or stones. So the mulch doesn't run out through the cracks.
00;38;14;25 - 00;38;36;00
Unknown
Oh got it. Thanks for clarifying. In that case, yes, you could definitely use a now Strobel landscape fabric right behind the stones or bricks as a kind of barrier to keep the mold from sneaking out there. Any gaps? That's a pretty common trick, and it can help keep everything tidy. Just tuck a little strip about right along the inside of your edging so that it stands up behind the stones and blocks any little escape route for the mulch.
00;38;36;03 - 00;38;42;07
Unknown
That way you're going to need while continuing to get even after heavy rain.
00;38;42;10 - 00;39;08;11
Unknown
Okay, cool. I've got a bunch of granite in my yard that I've been trying to figure out what to do with it. Big slabs of granite that I just got from a source because I didn't, it was really cool. And I was going to do a project with it, but it just kind of fell through. And now I got all these giant slabs of granite that I don't really know what to do with, but this might be perfect for that.
00;39;08;13 - 00;39;24;13
Unknown
Oh, that sounds like a great way to put those granite slabs to get used as you got them just sitting around and waiting for a project, turning them into a nice edging around your tree could be a pretty awesome solution, right? And it's sturdy and it's great, and it'll definitely give your motoring a really unique and solid border was.
00;39;24;13 - 00;39;40;06
Unknown
And I'll be cutting remaining quantities in place. And it's a cool way to repurpose those slabs into something useful. So yeah, I might just be a perfect fit for what you've got. Okay, are there different kinds of mulch?
00;39;40;09 - 00;40;05;14
Unknown
Absolutely. There are quite a few different kinds of mulch you can choose from, and each has its own perks. For example, you got organic mulches like shredded hardwood, Berkshire pine needles, or even straw that was brought down over time and enrich the soil, which is very fun. The tree and then and organic mulches like gravel, rubber mulch or stones that don't break down as quickly and can be more about weed suppression and decoration, is even mulch made from things like cocoa holes or recycle wood?
00;40;05;17 - 00;40;28;22
Unknown
They've got a lot of options depending on what look you like and how quickly you wanted to break down. It really just comes down to what the desired and how much foam arrangement on low medium coverage. Looking for. I probably would like to maximize the soil enrichment to, to an extent at least.
00;40;28;25 - 00;40;50;14
Unknown
Absolutely. If soil enrichment is a priority and I link to where something like Shredder, how we mulch or bark it all right down nicely over time and really help add organic matter back into the soil, they also look very natural and do a good job of keeping a oyster in. Another great option is compost. Some all drain leaf mulch if you have access to it, since that breaks down relatively quickly, and really which is the soil.
00;40;50;18 - 00;40;59;21
Unknown
So any of those organic options will help you get that nice nutrient boost over time.
00;40;59;23 - 00;41;16;11
Unknown
Okay. Yeah. The, I probably I get a lot of leaves off this tree, but I know that it is had a problem with and darkness. So I probably want to bring in fresh mulch.
00;41;16;13 - 00;41;36;16
Unknown
But yeah, that makes total sense. If your tree has had issues with anthrax or other fungal problems, it's definitely a good idea to bring in a fresh mulch rather than using the leaves from the tree itself that way. And, reintroducing any potential spores or pathogens back into the soil right around the free. Using a fresh, clean mulch from another source will give you the soil benefits.
00;41;36;16 - 00;41;58;10
Unknown
Without that, with the sounds like it's more clean and give, everything's all way possible. Okay, what haven't we covered? I obviously am not like an arborist or anything like that, but I think that you kind of are. So what am I? What do I need to know about that? I don't know to ask.
00;41;58;12 - 00;42;18;25
Unknown
Well, first off, I'm happy to play honorary arborist for you anytime. And it sounds like you've got a really good handle on the essentials. We've got our pruning rule, caramel icing, and some ways to keep us all healthy. Yeah, I'd say just keep an eye on the tree over time. Notice if you see any changes like unusual leaf drop signs, the path or any other issues and just address them early.
00;42;18;27 - 00;42;34;05
Unknown
Also on when the batteries are resilient with again giving it a good, then have a great shot at thriving for many years to come. So really you're on the right track. Just keep doing it and you got a solid plan in place.
00;42;34;08 - 00;42;45;13
Unknown
Okay. What can what else can I do in the near term besides the mulch rain?
00;42;45;16 - 00;43;09;03
Unknown
In the near term, besides setting up that all training, you could do a couple of small things. One will be just to do a nice thorough watering. If you haven't had rain recently, especially as you head into warmer weather, I don't have the tree handle any stress and get it nicely hydrated before you put the mulch down. And the other easy step is to just do a quick visual check of the lower trunk and branches to make sure there aren't any little sprouts or suckers that we trimming, just all the time being up.
00;43;09;05 - 00;43;18;12
Unknown
And then on that you're in good shape. Once the mulch is down and you then you're pruning. It's mostly just about keeping an eye on the tree and enjoying watching it thrive.
00;43;18;14 - 00;43;35;26
Unknown
Okay, so if I were to water a tree like this, what does that look like? Do I just leave a hose at the base of the tree and let it go for like a half hour?
00;43;35;28 - 00;43;50;28
Unknown
Yeah, that's actually a pretty good approach for a tree that size. You want to water deeply, so the moisture really gets down to the roots, letting a hose run on a slow trickle for maybe 20 to 30 minutes on the drip on in the area under the outer edge of the canopy will help the water soak in deeply.
00;43;51;00 - 00;44;09;08
Unknown
You don't need to flood it, just a nice slow soak so the water penetrates. You can move the hose around to a few different spots, so you're covering a whole red zone. And then every once in a while, especially during dry spells, we'll keep the tree happy. It's pretty set for and doesn't need to be complicated.
00;44;09;10 - 00;44;38;00
Unknown
Okay, so what do you consider a dry spell? Because we get, we get like intermittent rain here, but sometimes it's like it's like, this is really hard for like a half hour or like five minutes or sometimes it rains all day, but not as much during the summer. And it usually kind of just comes through. And like pounds as.
00;44;38;02 - 00;44;59;17
Unknown
Yeah, I get what you mean. In a place like Austin, where the rain can be pretty irregular, like sometimes you get a quick heavy downpour and then nothing for a while. It's more about watching for those longer stretches when you haven't had a good soaking rain for maybe a couple of weeks, and you've gone about two weeks in the hotter months without any meaningful rain or if the soil is really drying out, that's your cue to give a tree a nice deep water.
00;44;59;17 - 00;45;16;12
Unknown
And exactly if you notice the ground is dry and those little short rains I'm really soaking in, that's when you step in those. First of all, that roll up down is it has been a couple weeks of heat without a real soaking. That's a dry spell for the tree. Oh, I guess you have weather data for Austin, right?
00;45;16;12 - 00;45;29;13
Unknown
You can kind of give me some feedback and we can stay updated on this. And maybe you can give me an advice on when the tree needs water.
00;45;29;15 - 00;45;45;23
Unknown
Absolutely. I can definitely keep an eye on the local weather meter for Austin and help you figure out when am I be a get in the water whenever you want a quick check in on whether the true might be heading into a dry spell, just let me know and you can look at the resulting ball. Or guess that way you have a little extra backup on timing a watering and keeping the tree in touch.
00;45;45;23 - 00;46;16;10
Unknown
It. Yeah, let's talk about right now. I haven't watered it at all. It rained a little bit a couple days ago, but, what are your thoughts?
00;46;16;13 - 00;46;32;29
Unknown
So right now it looks like Austin's had a little bit of rain a couple of days ago, but overall it's been pretty dry and it's definitely heating up the forecast is calling for a stretch of very warm, mostly sunny days ahead with highs in the mid 90s. Even again in the background. We're a bit below average on rainfall for the year.
00;46;32;29 - 00;46;55;12
Unknown
It's probably a good idea to go ahead and give that tree an eye watering soon. That'll help it handle the upcoming heat and keep it in good shape. So yeah, I'd say it's a great time to give it a drink. Okay, can you, tell me exactly what I should to do to water both of those trees?
00;46;55;14 - 00;47;14;13
Unknown
Absolutely. Let's break it down step by step for both trees. What you'll want to do is that your hose honestly trickle in near the base of the first tree, but not right up against the trunk and said, position it around the drip blend area. Basically the down under the outer edge of the canopy, where bellows running from about 20 to 39 is giving it a nice deep silk so the water can really think.
00;47;14;13 - 00;47;30;17
Unknown
And after that, we're going to go around to a couple of other spots around its entry to make sure you're sucking all down evenly and just repeat the same process for the second tree on each tree and get their water like that. You should be set. It's a pretty simple routine, and that'll help both trees handle the heat.
00;47;30;19 - 00;47;43;26
Unknown
Okay, it is pretty simple, but you went through it pretty quick. What do you say? The drip line.
00;47;43;28 - 00;48;00;06
Unknown
Yeah, absolutely. Let me slow that down a bit. The drip line is basically the imaginary line on the ground that follows the outer edge of the tree's canopy. So if you look up at the tree and see how far out the branches spread, that outer edge is where the rain would naturally drip down. And that's the area where most of the feeder retires.
00;48;00;06 - 00;48;20;04
Unknown
So that's where you want to water. You just place on almost a little wave on the trunk and around my dribbling. And so the water reaches the roots that are spread out under the canopy. What is open air then? All the holes around that circles are the whole reason gets water opening only through. Be clear.
00;48;20;06 - 00;48;28;11
Unknown
Okay. Why do you choose the drip line specifically?
00;48;28;14 - 00;48;46;06
Unknown
Sure. So the reason you focus on the drip line is because that's where the tree's feeder roots are most active. Those roots extend out under the canopy. So about that drip line area to catch rainwater that naturally drips off the leaves, watering and the dribbling. You're basically mimicking the way the tree wouldn't actually get its water. And living moisture.
00;48;46;06 - 00;49;08;00
Unknown
Right. Why? The Tree King is obsessed. It helps the tree develop a strong, healthy root system, which in turn you find a tree healthy and stable. That's just the best spot to make sure the water is really getting to where the tree needs it. Interesting. Can you tell me a little bit more about the science, of this, like, roots going to the drip line.
00;49;08;00 - 00;49;19;19
Unknown
And that's where they have feeder roots that are active and all that.
00;49;19;21 - 00;49;43;26
Unknown
Absolutely. So here's a bit more of the science behind it. Trees have different types of roots, and the feeder roots of the fine hair like roots that are primarily responsible for absorbing water and nutrients. These rivers usually expand out horizontally from the tree and then often spread out roughly as far as a by. Just do that outer edge of the canopy or the drip line is where rainwater naturally drips off the leaves and falls to the ground over tall man trees adapt by growing.
00;49;43;26 - 00;50;02;21
Unknown
They feed on roots out into that them because that's all the water is most likely to land, a kind of a natural efficiency. The systems like areas where the water is most like. What have you found? Some I wondering is that you're going you're just working with the trees. Natural design and making sure the water goes straight to those at the root.
00;50;02;23 - 00;50;37;16
Unknown
Okay. Yeah, that makes a lot of sense. I never really thought about that before, but like, you can stand under this tree in a pretty heavy rain and not get any rain on you. So are the leaves. What happens to the water that lands on the very tip top of the tree are the trees like, made in a way, or, like, grown in a way that they shed water out to this drip line.
00;50;37;19 - 00;50;57;08
Unknown
So, yeah, you've got it exactly right. Trees are kind of naturally built to channel water outwards toward that. You're blind when rain hits the top of the canopy. A lot of it does get caught on the leaves and branches as the water drips off the edges of the leaves and actually falls toward the outer edge of the canopy.
00;50;57;13 - 00;51;17;04
Unknown
That's why you can stay near the trunk and stay relatively dry, maybe centered that you can be. You'll get your thumb exactly in the tree shape and the way the leaves are arranged. Help direct the water. We're. Which is why trees in up spreading out to that same area. The pretty common economical design. Okay, so, we have a good grasp.
00;51;17;04 - 00;51;45;15
Unknown
On what? Watering at the drip line. Does would you recommend for that watering to, like, leave it on a trickle for 30 minutes and then move it to another point? Maybe like how how far along the drip line? Like, how would you do that?
00;51;45;17 - 00;52;02;15
Unknown
Exactly. You got the right idea. So what you want to do is leave the hose on that slow trickle for about 20 to 30 minutes, and one spot along the drip line, and then just shifting over a few feet to the next section of the circle. You've working that process around maybe 3 or 4 spots around the tree, so that the entire root zone gets a nice even.
00;52;02;15 - 00;52;27;23
Unknown
So, if you just make sure you're covering that whole dribbling area so the water is distributed evenly and in the trees where it's all going to be drinking and not just soaking it out. So really, the more rotation and as you've done that, all that. Okay. How many right. If I move it a couple feet then that means there's probably like eight different points around each tree.
00;52;27;25 - 00;52;42;10
Unknown
Would you recommend doing that? I know it's a little bit time intensive. But what would be most ideal for the tree?
00;52;42;12 - 00;52;58;08
Unknown
Yeah, I get that. I can feel a bit of time consuming to move the hoe down multiple spots. Ideally, if you have a time and patience, hanging about 6 to 8 points around the tree will be fantastic because it really ensures even coverage every shot on time, even just 3 or 4 one five points can do a pretty good job.
00;52;58;11 - 00;53;26;03
Unknown
The main thing is just to rotate it enough so that you're not always watering the same exact spot and leaving other areas dry than I normally mow country by air, but you can actually adjust based on what's practical for you. Okay, I think I've seen hoses that have like perforations in them. This sounds like perfect for that situation.
00;53;26;05 - 00;53;47;08
Unknown
Yeah, absolutely. Those are called soaker hoses, and they're perfect for this kind of situation. A super hose is basically a hose or tiny corporations that let water seep out slowly along this entire line. You can land on around the job, go into the tree and it'll evenly water the whole area without you having to move it around as much is definitely a time saver and a really efficient way to make sure the tree gets a nice even so.
00;53;47;11 - 00;54;11;01
Unknown
So what if you are one of those and pick one up and start going to use for water? You create. Okay, so if I put a soaker hose around the tree, how long should I let it sit? So.
00;54;11;03 - 00;54;27;21
Unknown
Yeah. So with a soaker hose, you'll want to let it run long enough to give the soil a good deep soak. Usually there might be somewhere around 45 minutes to an hour, depending on how fast your soaker hose dressed and how dry the soil is. The I dance to let it run slowly so the water has time to really sit down to the roots rather than running off.
00;54;27;23 - 00;54;45;22
Unknown
You can check the soil like I love. 45 minutes to see if it feels nice and moist, a few inches down if it does, I get to go. And so for the big guy, you do want to run a little weight of water. Another.
00;54;45;24 - 00;55;03;13
Unknown
Absolutely. It's a pretty straightforward approach, and once you get the hang of it, it's almost done setting. Don't forget to kind of thing. You just lay this over hose. Right now you're buying. Let it run for that 45 minutes to an hour, and you're giving those roots exactly what they need, and you're ready to tweak the timing and do just based on how quickly the soil up over the water overall were.
00;55;03;13 - 00;55;30;19
Unknown
Nice, easy routine. You do definitely appreciate it. It is. Okay. Before we sign off today, what do you think I should know in order to, take the best care of this? These pear trees.
00;55;30;21 - 00;55;46;19
Unknown
Sure thing. Just to wrap it up, the big picture is really about consistent care and a little bit of observation. You've got the water and batted. You down. You know, about mulching to protect the weeds and soil. And you're doing the right timing for pruning. And, it's really just about keeping an eye on the tree's overall health.
00;55;46;25 - 00;56;17;02
Unknown
Watch for any signs of disease or pests, make sure it's getting the water needs during dry spells, and just give it a little seasonal attention. What do you do there? As you can see in a dry for many years, some and definitely on the right track. Okay, sweet. Thanks. Chat I really appreciate all the help that you've given me to, do this today.
00;56;17;04 - 00;56;32;19
Unknown
You're so welcome. I'm really glad I can help out and give you some tips. It sounds like you've got a great handle on it, and your tree is in good hands, so best of luck with all of that and just let me know anytime if you need more advice. All right. Thanks, Chet.